The New Smithville Country Inn is a small bed and breakfast located in what seems at first (and perhaps even at second and third) glance to be the middle of nowhere. However, the parking lot of the restaurant is always packed, and, if you call ahead to check on the restaurant's hours of operation, you'll be warned that reservations are needed to guarantee seating. My party's dining experience, if anywhere near the norm, may suggest a number of reasons why this small, out-of-the-way restaurant is so popular.

The decor of the inn, as well as the restaurant itself, can only be described as quaint and colonial. Small woven rugs cover the floor of the entranceway of the restaurant, and tables loaded with brochures and fliers listing nearby attractions line the walls by the door, indicating that, as we indeed discovered, the inn attracts many parties of tourists. The floor of the eating area, however, is bare, and its hard-wood planks gleam and shine despite their obvious age. The eating room's walls, though, more than make up for the floor's lack of adornment; small shelves filled with examples of local crafts, samples of canned goods, and old pictures sit above or near each table.

The eating room is quite large and can easily accomodate large families. One thing that was noticeable after a few minutes inside was the wide range of people who frequented the inn. On one side of my party, a group discussed the origin of the universe and quantum physics, while on the other, a family discussed the ailments of farm animals. The potential for people-watching, if such an occupation pleases you, was enormous.

Once the charm of its surroundings wore off, though, my party was face to face with what really counts - the quality of the food. When we were first seated, the members of my party were astounded by the number of different foods listed on the menu. Anything from small sandwich platters to large, full-scale dinners were available. Deciding to grab the bull by the horns, I ordered one of the daily house specials (a little larger than even the full-scale dinners on average), which consisted of a steak, a few shrimp, potato filling, fries, and apple sauce.

Our orders arrived promptly, and no complaints were issued by any. The steak (ordered well-done) was only somewhat dark on the outside, while the inside was tender and grey; all in all, the epitome of well-done. The shrimp were also quite tasty, and the fries were competently prepared. It was the potato filling that struck me. Perhaps the only piece of the meal that was really of Pennsylvania Dutch origin, it was, to be honest, quite daunting. Its bulk filled a small bowl, and it chuckled with yellow glee as I attempted to haul a forkful to my mouth. The density of potato filling must approach that of a neutron star; the bowl could easily have been a full meal for a dozen starving half-backs. I suppose, though, that in comparison with other potato fillings, it was good.

Dessert was simply magnificent. My grandmother used to make a wicked tongue-twisting, lip-pursing, goose-pimple-raising strawberry rhubarb cobbler. However, it is not something that I usually see on the menu of a restaurant outside of the South, so I was more than pleasantly surprised to see something similar on the menu of the inn's restaurant - strawberry rhubarb pie. Of course, something that sinful has to be served with a contrasting taste, something pure, so I had a helping of vanilla ice cream to go with the pie. Combined with the taste of the coffee with which I washed each mouthful down, a veritable new level in the heights of taste was reached.

When all was said and done, the total bill for this extravaganza came to about $33 for a party of two, and I must say that by the end of dessert, I felt that every penny was worth it. So, if you feel the need for a little people-watching, or perhaps a good dessert with coffee, or maybe even a full meal (complete with potato filling, of course), then the New Smithville Inn is the place for you.

The New Smithville Inn: 10425 Old Route 22, Kutztown, PA. (610) 285-2987. Takeout available (entire menu), Bread and Breakfast lodging also available. Hours: Monday-Saturday,11am-11pm; Sunday, 8am-8pm.